Journal

Field notes, host stories, and curated guides to the experiences worth travelling for.

A Day Trip to Lake Orta and Isola San Giulio from Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore

A Day Trip to Lake Orta and Isola San Giulio from Lake Maggiore

Lake Orta is the smaller, quieter lake just west of Maggiore. Here is what to do — the medieval village of Orta, the island it faces, and a kayak under a waterfall.

A Food and Wine Day in Alto Piemonte from Stresa

Lake Maggiore

A Food and Wine Day in Alto Piemonte from Stresa

Just inland from Lake Maggiore is a quietly serious wine country of Nebbiolo and Vespolina. Here is how to spend a half-day of vineyard tastings and a long Piedmontese table.

How to Visit the Borromean Islands Without the Day-Tripper Crush

Lake Maggiore

How to Visit the Borromean Islands Without the Day-Tripper Crush

By private boat, timed for early morning or the golden hour, you can have the islands almost to yourself. Here is how to do it — and what to skip.

Lake Maggiore: A Curated Guide to the Best Things to Do

Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore: A Curated Guide to the Best Things to Do

The best of Lake Maggiore is the Borromean Islands and their gardens, time on the water, the food and wine of the hills behind it, and the golden hour. Here is how it fits together.

Lake Maggiore with Kids: Hands-on Experiences Families Enjoy

Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore with Kids: Hands-on Experiences Families Enjoy

The lake is easy with children if you pick the hands-on things — a canoe to the islands, a Pinocchio workshop, a pizza night, a morning making cheese.

Lake Maggiore's Island Gardens: Isola Bella, Isola Madre and When to Go

Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore's Island Gardens: Isola Bella, Isola Madre and When to Go

Two of Italy's great garden islands sit in the Borromean Gulf. Here is which to choose, what is in bloom when, and how to see them before the midday crowds.

The Best Sunset Boat Trips and Dinners on Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore

The Best Sunset Boat Trips and Dinners on Lake Maggiore

The golden hour is the quietest, loveliest time on the Borromean Gulf. Here are the ways to spend it — from a one-hour cruise to a tasting dinner on Isola dei Pescatori.

Unusual Things to Do Around Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore

Unusual Things to Do Around Lake Maggiore

Past the islands and the ferries, the lake's hinterland hides genuinely odd, lovely things — including what is said to be the largest tea plantation in Europe.

Where to Kayak, E-bike and Get on the Water Around Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore

Where to Kayak, E-bike and Get on the Water Around Lake Maggiore

Beyond the island ferries, Lake Maggiore is a lake you can paddle, sail, cycle and fly over. Here are the genuinely active ways to spend a day — and which to pick first.

Where to Take an Italian Cooking Class Near Lake Maggiore

Lake Maggiore

Where to Take an Italian Cooking Class Near Lake Maggiore

Two kitchens to learn in around the lake: Nonna Margherita's home kitchen near Baveno, and a hands-on risotto class with a chef near Mergozzo.